Police in Hoh Xil stop traffic to let Tibetan antelope cross the road. [Photo provided to China Daily]

It struck me that the respective migrations of primates (in cars) and bovid (on hoof) were literally and metaphorically arriving at a crossroad.

One mostly runs north to south. The other runs east to west.

Modern development paved one with asphalt. Ancient instinct blazed the other through grass.

Hoh Xil is where we intersect as species, in every sense.

I've seen many rare animals during visits, such as wild donkeys, eagles and wild yaks. That's not to mention more common critters, such as marmots, mastiffs and rabbits.

The first time I saw a Tibetan antelope was while driving off-road to stay with a nomadic family in isolated mountains, years ago.

As it bounded out of sight, I noticed tiny heads popping from a cliff face to my left.