I loved it. The strange pungency of the leaves was addictive. It was a mixture of raw onions and garlic, but strangely subtle and really hard to define.

Eaten with cold mashed tofu, the leaves were slightly crunchy and had just a little bite to them. The tiny bits of stalks added a tactile contrast with the tofu.

I have since eaten many. I have also learnt to fry up toon leaves tempura, and flip a mean toon omelet.

To the Chinese, the toon tree makes its presence felt in the early days of spring and that first taste of the pungent leaves in an omelet or simply tossed in a salad with tender tofu is confirmation that the long bitter winter is really over.

Food is symbolic in China, and certain foods must be eaten at certain months or in certain seasons, and this is a faithfully kept tradition.

This has been how our ancestors ate, and we still continue cooking with one eye on the farmer's almanac. Spring greens from the good earth is one way of cleansing palates dulled by a winter diet dominated by pickles and preserves.