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Standing on the crossroads of a city's past and present

By PAN JIE in Xi'an | China Daily | Updated: 2023-10-13 07:23
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The depiction of beautiful female figures has been perennial throughout the history of art. The Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci and Les Demoiselles d'Avignon by Pablo Picasso are some exemplary artworks that capture the perfect womanly image.

Chinese people have their own Mona Lisa, too. For me, the renowned painting Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair with Flowers by Zhou Fang from the Tang Dynasty (618-907) provided me inspiration on how to elegantly dress in hanfu, a traditional Chinese clothing resembling the attire of noble Tang Dynasty women.

Recently, I had the opportunity to immerse myself in the world of Tang Dynasty fashion in Xi'an, formerly known as Chang'an, the capital city of the Tang Dynasty in China's Shaanxi province.

As someone with limited knowledge of hanfu, I had to put in extra effort to select the appropriate clothing. That's when I turned to Zhou's painting for guidance.

The ladies in the painting wore loose-fitting dresses with long see-through shawls draped over their shoulders. Their dresses of red and orange hues were decorated with flowers, cranes and geometric motifs.

The fashion reflected the cultural prosperity and exchanges that took place in Chang'an during the Tang Dynasty. The Silk Road, which served as a vital trade route, facilitated cultural interactions and brought diverse influences in art, fashion and technology to the city.

Indian and Persian influences, in particular, left their marks on the Chinese culture, especially in silk embroidery and costume design.

After much consideration, I finally chose a blue silk tunic top paired with a long orange dress that has intricate Dunhuang caisson patterns woven onto the skirt. A light graceful beige silk shawl was then draped across my shoulders.

To complete my transformation into a Tang Dynasty lady, I visited a hanfu shop called Ziyuge to have my hair and makeup done. Ziyuge is located in Xi'an's Datang Everbright City, a popular tourist destination on a grand street with Tang Dynasty architectural features.

During the Tang Dynasty, applying makeup was a meticulous process. Women used vibrant red rouge on their faces, creating a lavish appearance. Ziyuge's makeup artist Jiang Jingyuan gave me the "peach blossom" look, a makeup style heavily featuring red rouge.

Jiang then styled my hair into a bun, skillfully incorporating a wig and other hairpieces to achieve an elevated and voluminous effect. She also used gel to ensure I had a thick and full hair bun.

I expressed my amazement at how Tang Dynasty women maintained such voluminous hair, but Jiang told me that not all of the tall buns during that period were created using their natural hair. Many also relied on wigs to achieve the desired height and fullness.

As Jiang applied the finishing touches, a stunning Tang Dynasty lady in the mirror stared back at me.

Jiang also talked a bit about the hanfu industry, saying most hanfu stores here in Xi'an can provide services such as hanfu rentals, customized makeup packages, and even professional photography.

According to corporate data provider Qichacha, there are over 400 hanfu-related enterprises in Xi'an as of early May.

Hanfu fashion is also not limited to Chinese people. It has also been capturing the interest of foreigners. Jiang said Chinese customers occasionally bring their foreign friends to the shop for a hanfu experience. The shop even collaborates with local travel agencies, catering to foreign tourists who wish to dress in hanfu.

"We usually prepare clothes specifically for them, considering the differences in body shapes and aesthetic preferences between foreigners and Chinese individuals," Jiang said. She added that foreigners prefer red hanfu, as they find the color red more festive.

This is a fascinating coincidence as people in the ancient city of Chang'an adorned themselves with rouge obtained through Silk Road trade, dressed in brocade fabric featuring Persian and Indian patterns, and indulged in lively dances from the Western Regions. And more than a thousand years later, the modern city of Xi'an remains a captivating destination for foreigners.

After thanking Jiang for her excellent handiwork, I took a leisurely stroll through Everbright City. The scenery transported me into a world resembling vibrant scenes as described in ancient poems and paintings.

At that moment, the boundaries between history and reality blurred, as the historical essence of Chang'an seamlessly intertwined with the modernity of Xi'an.

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