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A matter of taste sets menu apart

By Li Yingxue | CHINA DAILY | Updated: 2023-12-14 08:30
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Zhang Zhicheng (center) with his team of chefs at China Tang restaurant in Beijing. [Photo provided to China Daily]

Speaking of his "delicious and rich" cooking style, Zhang says, "For me, deliciousness is about cooking and processing being balanced, the product being standardized, and harmony between contrasting flavors".

Food vlogger Li Xiaonan, says that Zhang embodies the spirit of a young culinary hero and that his cooking style is versatile, exhibiting a fearless and agile approach.

The pairing of assertive, bold and, at times, audacious ingredients might appear domineering. However, upon closer examination, one discovers a subtle finesse — a fusion of tradition and nuanced local innovation, Li comments.

Zhang's culinary journey started when he watched the anime series Cooking Master Boy. Upon watching this cartoon for the first time, Zhang instantly realized his calling was to become a chef.

From then on, the show not only served as a source of inspiration, but also exerted a profound influence on his present cooking style.

At 19, he secured the position of chef for pop singer Su Xing's new restaurant.

After gaining two years of experience at Su's establishment, Zhang, along with others, established the upscale takeout platform Shetouhenmang "busy tongue".

The platform attracted a 3 million yuan ($418,000) angel investment in 2016, yet Zhang eventually decided to step away from the project because he didn't want to make standard food, but concoct creative Chinese cuisine in his own style.

He then became the chef of Yanjintang, a private restaurant that only serves one table per day, which is located in a Beijing hutong.

In 2021, he took up the baton from his predecessors and assumed the role of executive chef at the then two-star Michelin restaurant Golden Flower.

Beneath the restaurant's iconic sign, the inscription reads, "run by Zhang Zhicheng".

Zhang believes that the experience gained in the past few years through interactions with diners have significantly contributed to his growth. They have also provided him with a clearer understanding of the culinary path he should tread.

"The more I comprehend, the more I realize that deliciousness is paramount," he says.

The owner of China Tang, Peter Lam Kin-ngok, a Hong Kong businessman, has been enjoying Zhang's culinary creations since the early years of his chef career.

Lam extended several invitations for Zhang to join the restaurant, and finally, this year, Zhang decided to accept the offer, embarking on a new challenge.

"Mr Lam has a profound understanding of gourmet cuisine; some dishes in the restaurant even bear the flavor he personally crafted."

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