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New 'dry shampoo' catching on in salons

By Gan Tian (China Daily)
Updated: 2009-08-21 08:06

Wang Min squints while getting her hair massaged during a dry shampoo at Provost Hair Salon. [Photos by Jonah M. Kessel]

Anyone who goes to a hair salon in China might hear the word "ganxi", literally "dry wash". This type of hair wash is offered by most salons - big or small, fancy or shabby - throughout the country.

Many attribute its popularity to the fact that "dry wash" is environmentally friendly (it needs less water) and customer-friendly (it usually involves a scalp massage).

For salon frequenters such as Beijinger Yang Mi, getting a "dry wash" is a good way to relax after a stressful day.

After the 25-year-old advertising professional enters the hair salon near her apartment, a stylist sits her down in front of a mirror, applies a mixture of shampoo and conditioner to her hair, and begins to massage her head. Soon, her hair is covered in froth.

The massage takes about 30 minutes, leaving Yang feeling relaxed and refreshed at the end of it. After that, Yang is led to the water tap and her hair is given a thorough wash.

"Though this way of hair washing is not really 'dry', it needs much less water than is required for a regular wash," says Xiao Yun, an experienced hairstylist at Beijing's Shenmei Hair Salon.

This trend of "dry wash" can be traced to Fujian, Guangdong and Zhejiang provinces in the early 1990s, when more people began to frequent hair salons.

The story goes that one day, at a salon near a coastal city, a furious customer who had been waiting a long time, prepared to leave in a huff. A quick-thinking beautician, who did not want to lose her business, offered to massage her scalp with a mixture of shampoo and conditioner, dropping the hair pre-wash stage.

Soon, other hair salons began to do the same and the trend caught on.

The typical Chinese dry wash saves on water but takes more effort than the traditional hair wash.

Some people complain that this type of dry wash destroy the hair quality. But recent L'Oreal reports, based on a study of 67 Chinese volunteers, say there are no adverse effects of this method, when done correctly.

However, one should be wary of small salons and their unprofessional services. "Some hairstylists do not clean their hands thoroughly, or even massage the scalp properly," Xiao warns.

Over the past few years, a new trend in dry wash, which uses no water, is also becoming popular. Baking soda is used instead of shampoo and conditioner and this type of wash is now available at some hair salons such as Dongtian Studio and Shenmei, based in big cities. Interested customers need to make a prior appointment.

This dry wash is suitable for those allergic to chemicals in shampoos and conditioners or those who looking for spiffy-looking hair but without the time for a regular wash, says Xiao.

It is also becoming popular among youngsters keen on trying new things.

Wang Min, a 28-year-old IT consultant in Beijing, visits Xiao's salon twice a month. As Wang settles in, Xiao reaches for a bottle containing baking soda, which is made from sodium chloride (or ordinary table salt), carbon dioxide, water, and ammonia.

Soon, foam bubbles can be seen appearing in Wang's hair, even though no water has been used. Xiao then uses a wide-toothed comb to move the baking soda through Wang's hair, allowing it to absorb the grease and odors.

But Wang does not leave immediately. She waits for another five minutes. "(This is to) allow the baking soda to absorb the odors," Xiao explains.

At the end of five minutes, Wang is asked to shake her hair thoroughly. Xiao tosses her hair about to release the powder, then combs through its several times until no trace of the baking soda remains.

"Sometimes, I need to pass a wet comb through my customers' hair if I am unable to remove the baking soda," says Xiao.

Some people fear that traces of chemicals left in the hair can harm one's health, but according to Xiao, it is completely safe. "It is unlike dyeing or curling your hair. Dry wash is even safer," he says.

But the one problem with this method concerns styling. "If you style your hair with chemicals after the wash, make sure there are no chemicals that should not be mixed with baking soda," says Xiao. She recommends a water wash if you need to color your hair later.